Wednesday, 5 June 2013

plugging holes and getting our urban fix

Lots of hard working paddlers in this rolly bay

Our fuel tank had a leak. We made this very unpleasant discovery on our way to Taiohae, the Marquesas’ capital. We had hoped for some respite from boat projects after days of working away in Anaho, but a major project was what we ended up with. In spite of this turn of events, we found ways to enjoy Taiohae in between the many steps it took to fix our fuel tank. There were people to meet and inter-island outrigger canoe races to watch from our front row seats aboard Nyon.

La roulotte - great tasting food and a break for that day's cook

It's not all fun and play

Enjoying an evening out with our friends from SV Landfall
SV Landfall caught up with us again in Taiohae, we decided to splurge and go out for dinner with them. Rick and I don’t do that often, it’s not in the budget. Although I'll admit, we did break down a couple times in this town... That evening, we met Henri, one of the owners' father, who regaled us with stories as we ate our dinner. I finally tasted poisson cru, and it was delicious. To our cruising friends who love their Mexican ceviche across the Pacific, it’s similar, except that they include coconut milk in the recipe. There was a movie festival in a tiny movie theatre in town. This international film festival is called FIFO. We watched two free movies there while freezing under the cold blast of an air conditioner. One of the movies we watched was called Aux enfants de la bombe, a rather disturbing documentary about the repercussions of the nuclear testing performed by France in a region of the Tuamotus. It was heartbreaking.

An older aluminum tank needs special treatment

New friend
Taiohae is also where we met our friends Sabine and Jonathan, and their 8 year old son Tuuhia. Sabine and I struck up a conversation ashore when I was doing some solo exploring and we hit it off immediately. We met up around town a few more times, and when our big boat project was done and over with, we invited the little family over to Nyon for dinner. It was very amusing to watch Rick and our guests fumble their way through a conversation while I was cooking dinner. Occasionally, one of them would ask: “Kyra, how do you say…” Mostly there was a lot of laughing and gesticulating. Loaded down with mangoes from their garden and fish they’d caught that day, we bade them farewell, unsure if we’d ever see each other again. This is the bittersweet life of a voyager.

Jonathan and Rick opting for a relaxed pose

Father and son
Eventually we were ready to let go of urban joys to rediscover the wilderness. That’s when we headed to Hakatea for the muddiest week ever.

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