Thursday, 29 November 2012

now we're really up the creek

Looking out toward the Sea of Cortez
As the crow flies, it wasn't very far. We did have to walk through swarms of mosquitoes at first. We then had to scale unseemly boulders to get past the first pretty waterfall.

Walking down the dirt road toward the canyon
I'm talking about the Tabor Canyon hike near Puerto Escondido. (This canyon is also referred to as the Steinbeck Canyon.) We set out from the marina one sunny morning, accompanied by our friends Trisha and Derrick (SV Interabang). To get to the canyon, you must first walk about a mile down the road to Highway 1. Cross the highway, and follow a dirt road for about a half a mile. (To the left of the dirt road, next to the highway, you will notice a power station.) This is where the mosquitoes begin feasting on you. A good repellent is a must! (It was particularly true in our case, because of the somewhat recent rainfall due to hurricane Paul.) Eventually, the dirt road meets a river bed, and you follow the river bed. At one point, Trisha and I began to hear water rushing underfoot. We stared down at the dry riverbed in amazement. We both laughed nervously, as we began to walk a little more quickly. Eventually we saw evidence of water. And the rocks grew larger. The canyon walls rose high, and we oohed and aahed our way in.

The first waterfall
We reached the first waterfall and pondered how to get over it to continue our hike. At that point, our buddies decided to call it quits, and head back to Puerto Escondido. Rick and I scrambled up the boulders next to the waterfall. Thank goodness, someone had set up a rope partway up. As we reached the top, we looked ahead, we could see the riverbed meandering up between towering cliffs, ringed with palm trees and green shrubs. The landscape was striking.

Rick climbing past the first waterfall

Nature in its Mexican glory
As we negotiated the rocky terrain, the hike just kept getting better, water rushed by us, butterflies teemed around us, and the sun was shining. The river was already beginning to dry up when we were there – we noted areas that had only recently dried out. Yet, there was still plenty of water, including waterfalls and shallow pools. We hiked to a lovely multi-layered waterfall, with a nice pool at the bottom. We had read somewhere that you had to go through a crevasse to continue on – we couldn’t find it, and after much climbing and crawling, we wondered if some of the boulders had blocked the passage during the intense rainfall. (The rock we had to get past was some 30 feet high.) While Rick found a tricky way to get by, he suggested we hang out there for a while and then head back, which is what we did. We both braved the chilly waters, albeit briefly, and enjoyed lunch to the sound of water spilling over smooth rocks, before making our way back to the Sea.

Another view of the Sea

This looked more striking in real-life, the
boulder on the right-hand side rose up about
30 feet.

Rick, cooling off his toes

Tired muscles, a couple scrapes, and only a few mosquito bites later, we arrived back at  the highway. A pair of friendly young Mexicans offered us a ride , and we gladly accepted. 

This hike was one for the books. We highly recommend it.

Happy hikers
Tabor Canyon: A magical place


  1. Did y'all hike before you started cruising? I'm trying to figure out how much better shape I need to get in, lol but seriously :) Also, hiking boots or tennis shoes?

    1. I've always loved hiking - for a couple years, I couldn't because I had a terrible time with my ankylosing spondylitis... but I have prevailed and we are now back into it - I have been using my tennis shoes in the Sea, as it's still pretty dang hot, and my hiking boots are heavy duty - I'd say - sturdy, breathable hiking shoes are a good option - that's what I'm saving up for! If anything, when you are cruising - you walk A LOT. If you get yourself ready for that, you'll be fine - and it all depends on how active you want to be other than that - We swim/snorkel a lot too. :)



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