Monday, 29 October 2012

fishes, but no loaves

Looking West from Isla Tiburon
It was time to tear it open. The last package of crackers: We’d let it linger out of sight, in the “cracker bag”, but that morning I couldn’t bring myself to have fish for breakfast again.

Fish for breakfast, fish for lunch, fish for dinner. I’ve eaten more fish in the past 4 months, than I have in my entire life. And yes, I do like fresh fish. It’s just that our provisions had gotten sparse, and fish had taken over every meal. It had been a month since we’d been in Bahia de Los Angeles. While we provisioned there, I don’t think we had yet formulated the plan to continue east and over to the mainland; our lack of provisions seemed to reflect that fact after 3 weeks on Angel de la Guarda. We decided to keep going anyway. John on SV Time Piece continued buddy-boating with us, while SV Eagle headed south. John is the master of simplicity. Rice and fish go a long way. We are not starving. I just miss fresh fruit and tortillas. I even miss canned corn. I never thought I would write that, least of all, admit it.

A brown booby hitchhiking
We arrived in Isla Tiburon’s North Willard East Bay on October 9. While the forecast had promised southwesterlies that day, we’d instead been forced to beat into 20 knot east-south-east winds for 9 hours. We were tired. A brown booby welcomed us into the bay by plunking himself down on the coach roof. He looked tired too. This was a lovely bay, especially in strong southeasterly winds – we were protected, and ready to relax.

Our goal was to explore some of the Midriff Islands and a few anchorages north of San Carlos on the mainland, before finding our way back to the Baja. So there we were, anchored off an island named after a shark.  By then, we had maybe 4 cups of whole wheat flour left,  some beans, and Jello, (you’d be surprised how exciting that is), plus a few odds and ends. We also dug up a package of rice and three packages of pasta, all bug-free. That’s saying something in the tropics. Thank goodness, we had plenty of coffee. And fish. We had fish.

Sitting pretty
Lovely Tiburon
Our first day there began with the aforementioned fortuitously discovered cream cheese and last package of crackers. After my morning coffee, I almost convinced John to join me to explore ashore, Rick having already opted for a lazy morning. Apparently, the mood was rampant and I ended up going solo, which was fine. I am fond of my meandering explorations that are usually rather slow and dreamy. I followed coyote tracks, watched a large spider weave her web, and butterflies – looking worse for wear – flittering among the varied plant life on the island. I accidentally stepped on a chunk of cholla cactus. The spines of cholla cacti are like Velcro, they don’t want to let go. Luckily, I had already learned that – I use a rock to remove it from my shoe, my tender skin fortunately unscathed, and continued on. In spite of the ever-present cacti, the further east we go, the more leafy plants there are… After a summer in the Baja, it’s like getting reacquainted with your long lost cousin, almost.

Desert plants grow all kinds of things to survive the harsh

A splash of colour

The route I followed, made up of mostly sand, was a series of dry river beds (arroyos) – a perfect web of trails into the island. I could have lost myself there for days, but I only had so much water. After 2 hours, I reluctantly made my way back to shore. The brisk breeze nearly pushed the dinghy to Nyon with nary an effort on my part and Rick welcomed me with a batch of popcorn. Isla Tiburon was looking very promising indeed.

You can always count on cacti here

Osprey flying off

A hardworking spider


  1. "I just miss fresh fruit and tortillas. I even miss canned corn. I never thought I would write that, least of all, admit it."

    Hahhahaa! In Penrhyn, the only veg that was fresh was pumpkin, locally grown, and delicious so I'm not complaining. But we went to the store and there were two types of canned veggies: corn and beets. Let me tell you, we bought and devoured several cans of corn, creamed and whole kernel. Other than sprouts which we do on the boat, we had eaten all of our canned veggies (and fresh were long, long gone at that point having not seen a grocery in almost two months).

    1. Oh, haha! That's too funny - I guess we're practicing for when we go to the South Pacific - when we reached civilization again (Bahia Kino), we were so excited to buy fresh produce - it were like kids in a candy store!



Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...