Tuesday, 24 July 2012

refill, resupply, recover

Colourful Santa Rosalia
We had crackers for breakfast and only 10 gallons of water left in our tanks. It was time for a town. Santa Rosalia was it. We were on Isla San Marcos when civilization called, a mere 10 nautical miles away.  SV Eagle led the way and we followed. Not long after that SV Time Piece showed up too. We thought we'd anchor, but reconsidered when we realized we needed to load 16 garrafons, (those are 5 gallon jugs) onto Nyon in order to fill her tanks with the goodness of purified water. It was decided, we would go to a dock. There are two options in Santa Rosalia. There is the Fonatur Marina - what I call the swanky marina. Then, there's the hole in the wall marina: Santa Rosalia Marina, with the rickety wooden docks and the broken-down clubhouse. Guess which one we chose? We lucked into a slip at the old marina, and couldn't believe that this was the first time we were at a dock in exactly 6 months. We recognized some of the boats there, and also met a few crusty salts who warmed up to us once we laid on the Canadian charm. 

The marina. We are next to the motor vessel on the far right.
It's not very clear, but Armando and Rick are lugging and pouring
garrafons of water, I'm about to bring another load down the ramp.
Thank goodness for our dolly.
The glorious marina office
We like this marina. The office is a rundown clapboard building, with paint, actively peeling off the wood. The dusty interior, sparsely filled with mismatched furniture and a wall full of books for the avid reader, felt just right. Santa Rosalia Marina uses the honour system. You want a beer? Take one out of the fridge and tally it on your personal record sheet. Crave a coke? Mark it down. When you leave you add up what you owe and pay up. It's simple, and I like it. The wall of books is a book exchange. Bring a book, take a book. Rick's horrified look, when I picked up 3 more novels, stopped me from picking a fourth; I will have at least a dozen books to drop off on our next visit. So, really, it balances out, right? 

The quintessential Mexican pangas

Nothing gets between Tom and his bacon-
wrapped hotdog... Not even Jeanne!

We had heard of the famous Chuyiutas hotdogs. Bacon-wrapped weiners with the works. That includes what I call "melted plastic cheese" and onions among other delectable choices. We indulged, but let me tell you, two trips there had us sated of that craving. For at least a year. We explored the town with fellow cruisers, found the hardware store, located a bakery, a yummy taco stand, the bank, the ISSTE (Government-sponsored grocery store), the tortilleria, and the list goes on. (Now, if only I had remembered to actually pick up some fresh tortillas before leaving town!) Let's say that it was a full two days of running around like the mad gringos that we are. That's what happens when you're planning supplies for 2 months...

It's officially mango season!
We learned that here, many a "novedades" store will carry an unpredictable variety of items for sale. A store may have some baby clothes, kitchenware and giftwrap supplies. Another might have shoes too. Or hair products. There is no rhyme or reason to it, but it's half the fun. Unless you're on a self-imposed schedule, that is. 

 Rick and I are now able to split up to make more efficient use of our time when we're in a town. There was a time when he was very uncomfortable trying to communicate in Spanish and I did all the talking. Now he goes into a store head first, apologizes for his poor Spanish, and proceeds to inquire after the items he needs - in Spanish - and manages to get the right items! 

Sometimes, we fail to notice the small ways voyaging has transformed us. From how we handle unexpected challenges, learn spearfishing techniques, or ask for a 25 amp switch in Spanish, our comfort level keeps expanding. When we revisit our first few months here, it's pretty cool to see how far we've come.

Looking out from the plaza, watching life go by.
We did pause. A little.
After barely surviving the "busy-ness" of this trip to town, we promised ourselves that the next time we stop here, for our final provisioning before going north, we will slow down. Explore. Take in the sights. And go. with. the. flow. It's such a contrast from the deserted anchorages with the occasional fishing camp, that we seem to forget that our pace of life can still remain sane, even if we are among the civilized...

Well, Santa Rosalia, we kind of rushed by you this time. We got a taste, but only a taste. We'll be back very soon, and this time, we'll do it right.

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